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Postcard from Berlin, frontPostcard from Berlin, back


With purple shades it's a lonely view...
-- Red Hot Chili Peppers, "Californication"
Dateline:  Thursday 8.7.1999 22:43
Location: Hotel an der Gropiusstadt, Neukölln, Berlin
Uui-uui!  I got to Geneva, got everything necessary done (incl. finally dumping my digicam) and set off to Berlin together with Arto & Atte the next morning.  The 12 hours passed amazingly quickly and I even managed to take a 6-hour ICE high-speed train (250 km/h!) for free, as the conductor evidently thought our reservation for "3 sans supplement" meant with, not without, supplement prepaid!
Interrail ticket
Upon exit from the train station we were immediately greeted by a cute girl wearing only a bra and hot pants, obviously hawking something.  Wary after Tunisia I walked right past, but the others were sufficiently intrigued to communicate -- and it's a good thing they did, as it turned out she was selling BVG's special 10 DEM armbands that are valid for the entire Love Parade weekend and allow the use of all buses, trains, etc in the Berlin area.  The plastic armband is sweat-resistant and impossible to lose, and it's even colored a bright flourescent red!  Absolutely brilliant!
After downing some cheap fast-food Chinese we headed for the hotel, running into my friends Sampo & Heidi on the way, and absolutely everybody else at the hotel itself.  The hotel turned out to be quite amazing: large, bright rooms with comfy beds, bathroom, TV, the works...  and at 1/3 the list price quite cheap too.  But the best thing was that the entire hotel was reserved for us alone, so we could party as hard as we wanted and only worry about upsetting the neighbors.  The Entropy crew brought their own PA equipment, so by evening the music was pumping and everybody, most definitely including myself, was psyched -- we're in Berlin!  For the Love Parade!  And maybe for the last time, as rumor says it'll move to Paris next year...
 


Work that motherfucker!
-- Steve Poindexter (Djax-Up-Beats)
Dateline: Friday 9.7.1999
Location: Hotel an der Gropiusstadt, Neukölln, Berlin

Not an ordinary supermarketI slept late, which was no surprise as it was the first real bed I'd seen since I left Tunisia.  Yet another advantage of conquering the entire hotel became apparent: the breakfast hours had been moved from the usual obscene 6-9 to a far more pleasant 10-12.  Joy!  After downing free (albeit hideous) caffeine it was time to shop 'till you drop, taking in some of central Berlin along the way.  This was my 3rd time in Berlin so I knew the city well enough, but Arto was here for the first time.  We headed straight for the famed Market (Uhlandstraße 29), the local Mecca for trendy but oh-so-expensive techno gear.  I fell in love with a pair of perfectly fitting khaki thigh-pocket pants by Dose and splurged 100 DEM.  After plonking down more cold cash on a techno remix of some Skinny Puppy tracks and a package of contact lenses I had whittled away 200 DEM and decided to return to the hotel before more damage was done.

In a peculiar repeat of 1997, there was a high-class Chinese place right next to our hotel, so again we gathered a small group of friends and ordered a traditional gigantic meal for (relative) peanuts.  (Except one unnamed person, who opted for the traditional Chinese treat of...  french fries.)  Ever the linguist, I was considerate enough to reply to the waitress' German phrases with a xièxie or two, eliciting a giggled smile and, as it turned out, a free glass of plum wine for everybody.

Flourescent flyerAnd then it was time to get ready for the night's party, Licht & Liebe (Light & Love), which was also the official opening party of the Love Parade.  Just about everybody else had also been shopping and the hot item of the day was obviously a wraparound dress by Ultramarine.  One of the many purchasers included my (male) roommate Panu, as well as our resident freak Jalmari, whose girlfriend provided a bit of needed balance by wearing a tie.  By the time we set off it was past midnight and we were greeted everywhere by the siren song of the kebab seller:  "Red Bull!  Red Bull!"  But we ignored their calls and swapped increasingly stupid and/or obscene jokes until we arrived at the night's venue, the aptly named Arena.  Entrance cost 20 DEM and getting in past security was a joke...  except, alas, for poor Panu, who not only had his booze but his plastic policeman's baton confiscated as well.

So I entered the massive hall and immediately my jaw dropped.  There were thousands of people milling about in a hall the size of the football stadium the Arena is, and the tune being played on the massive speakers stacked all around the hall in a bizarre 8-point formation was "Olé olé, olé olé, olé olé...". Whaaaat?  I desperately searched for more halls, a chillout, anything to get away from the dreaded sound of Latin discopop, but no, nothing -- the only alternative source of sound was the cordoned-off VIP area outside.  The horror.  Fortunately, the DJ was soon carted off to the Stasi dungeons for questioning, and The Man himself, creator and head honcho of the Parade Dr. Motte stepped up to the decks.  Much to my amazement it was pretty good, dancy stuff; so good, in fact, that I managed to lose my cheap-ass but spiffy sunglasses at some point when bouncing around.  The live hip-hop(py) set by the mysterious Messrs. X and Y "sucked ass", to use a Southparkism, but then it was time to for the night's real star Takkyu Ishino to start spinning...  and was it groov-eah!  Pretty odd in some ways, he seemed to be mixing the bass of hard-hitting monotrax with poppier house, but the music just got better and better with time.  I was planning to leave around 4 when the first trains started running, but being the evil man that he is, Ishino-sensei kept me there well past 5.

But all good things must come to an end and eventually I set off back, joining a guy from the hostel for company on the 1.5 hr trip back.  The poor guy was obviously dosed to the gills on some hallucinogen, his mumblings were incoherent and he would probably have had a pretty hard time finding his way back.  At the hotel another small surprise was hanging on the door knob (freely translated from the Finnish):
 

There's a woman here.
Room 23, the bed next to the window.
Thanks a million

I grinned and, with the thoughtfully included key, made my way to room 23, where everybody was too comatose to question my presence.
 



Music is the key
-- Love Parade 1999
Dateline:  Saturday 10.7.1999
Location: Straße des 17. Juni, Tiergarten, Berlin

From left to right: Esa, Arto, Jani, TeroPasi the HattivattiAnd at long last it was Love Parade day!  Definitely no time to sleep late, I ejected myself from bed before 9 and went shopping for latex gloves and energy drinks.  I sneaked into the bathroom and emerged some fifteen minutes later with half a can of Directions' Spring Green semi-permanent dye smeared into my hair.  (I originally wanted to get a quasi-mohawk to go along with it, but a complex conspiracy involving displaced dye cans and poor German ability prevented this.)    I opted for the conformist route and wore the thoughtfully provided "Tripping with Entropy: Love Parade 1999" shirt like everybody else in my little group, but without a doubt the most amazing outfit at the hotel was Pasi's, who dressed up as a green-haired Hattivatti complete with four waving arms.

Party people at the Evosonic stageWading in the fountainWe hopped on the U-Bahn and headed for Ernst-Reuter-Platz, carefully choosing an obscure route to avoid the hordes that plague all centrally located stations.  Finding our way was easy, as the traffic was practically unidirectional, and by the time we arrived it was 14:00.  The first attraction was the pumpin' monotraxx being churned out by the Evosonic satellite radio folks, but we were here for the parade, dammit!  Beyond the large fountain-cum-wading pool (populated by overheated freaks) we could see RTL's yellow balloons indicating the locations of the trucks, so after each of us popped 10 DEM for some k-rad glasses it was time to march on.

God is a DJThe Smog truck's DJ spinningThe initially tolerable population density increased as we approached the central Siegessäule (Tower of Victory), the landmark of the Parade.  After lots of aimless aimbling about we parked ourselves behind the truck of the Smog crew ("fresher than air!"), which was blasting out quite tolerable Detroit tracks.  The best way to get some space for yourselves and keep moving is to stay behind a truck: as the truck moves forward, it will create empty space and you can just walk behind it.  Quite a few Smog-people were considerate enough to hose down the crowd with Super Soakers, which was much appreciated!

A gate swallowed up in the crowdPeace, love and sunflowers!Eventually we decided to slog on towards the Siegessäule, which turned out to be a bit of a mistake.  By this point it was obvious that there were a lot more people milling about than in previous years, and a very nasty chokepoint had developed at the point where the avenue opens onto the central square: it was literally impossible to move!  Drunken German idiots laughed merrily and pushed at each other, sending domino-effect surges through the immobile crowd and making me almost lose my balance a number of time. Fortunately an escape route was nearby, as the wall separating the avenue from the surrounding park was close and friendly people atop the wall were hoisting people on the wall and away from the crowd. We headed for this and, while waiting for our turn, I even managed a halfway decent shot of some sunflower girliez dancing on the wall.  In the end, we escaped without a scratch, but I learned later that an acquaintance had fallen down and banged her knee badly -- and she considered herself lucky...

Uraa, hyvä Suomi!Ein, zwei, polizei!Having had enough of the parade for the moment, we grabbed some kebabs and went to look for the anti-Love Parade simply and eloquently known as the Fuckparade.  We found the starting location alright, as there were masses of trash, broken bottles, etc lying about, but there was no sign of the parade itself.  Quite a few others seemed to be looking for it as well, but they were just as clueless.  So we gave up and tackled the Love Parade from the other end.  Along our way from the Brandenburg Gate to the Siegessäule we ran into not one, but two separate groups of Finns, neither of which was related to Entropy.  The first bunch were exchange students in Berlin, the second was Interrailing and decided to stop here for a little party, hanging onto a central lamp post and waving Finnish flags. Suomi Finland Perkele!  On the other side of the street there was a line of policemen and policewomen, quite a few of them bopping to the beat and posing with drag queens.

The Siegessäule at nightPulsing masses of fleshBy the time we reached the Siegessäule night was slowly falling and people were starting to leave, so it wasn't quite as crowded as before.  Another over-the-wall trick was still necessary, and my feet were starting to hurt enough that I was seriously contemplating quitting and going home, but in retrospect I'm glad I didn't!  The remaining three of us managed to secure places on the wall around the Siegessäule, and heilige Scheiße, what a sight!  Standing in front of a teeming, animalistic mass of humanity, naked flesh colored red by the spotlights, the gold-topped shadow of the Siegessäule standing proudly against a deep blue sky, synchronized pulsing techno beats coming from trucks slowly orbiting the central pole...  France, Hungary, Finland, people of all nations all dancing together...  I felt a sense of downright religious awe and I danced as hard as you can on a 30-cm strip of concrete raised a meter and a half in the air (which is not much).

Around 11 PM I could no longer ignore the squeals of pain from my battered legs and I started the long trek out of Tiergarten to the U-Bahn station and back to the hotel, joining the small minority who actually slept that night.  Just what kind of drugs is everybody else taking?
 



Eine Kebab, bitte
-- yours truly
Dateline:  Sunday 11.7.1999
Location: Euro-Asia Imbiß, Hönow, Berlin

In a superhuman show of strength and endurance I managed to drag myself out of bed before 12, in time for breakfast.  I spent most of the afternoon loafing around the party room downstairs, attempting to mix Skinny Puppy with Kodo and sitting on the green grass outside, wondering why a garden hose was constantly dribbling into a small patch, which had become a jungly swamp while the rest of the garden was dehydrated.  (As an experiment, I moved the hose to a different patch.  When I returned in the evening, it had been moved back to its original place.  Mysterious...)

Lenin was here tooBut after all this lolling about it was time to get going, and with Arto and Tero in tow I headed for the former heart of East Berlin, Alexanderplatz.  We wanted to scale the famously ugly Fernsehturm (TV Tower), but entrance was an extortionate 9 DEM and there was a long line to boot.  Instead, I contented myself with finding an exquisitely scuplted lobster in a fountain at the other end of the square.

Around 17:30 we met Sampo & Heidi and embarked on our most bizarre Berlin journey yet.  A careful examination of the Berlin map indicated that line U5, appropriately colored a delightful shade of Scheiße, extended the farthest out into former East Berlin, terminating in the suburb of Hönow.  So what better way to spend an afternoon than take the train there and back?  (Remember, with the LP bracelet all public transport was free!)  Somewhat to our disappointment the trains themselves were of Wessie design, so new that they still smelled like plastic.  After some 10-odd stations the U-Bahn plopped up above the ground, and we were met with exciting scenery consisting of...  fields.  Nothing else, just green fields.  But soon enough the train pulled into the next station, and we proceeded to match East Berlin suburbs with those around Helsinki.  "Ohmigod.  We've arrived in Kerava."  "Matinkylä."  "Now this place is definitely Itä-Pasila."  "Kontula."  "But where's all the urban decay?  This place looks like fucking Olari!"  10 years have passed since the end of the old era and much has, indeed, changed -- all these suburbs were much less hideous looking than I would have expected.

Isn't it beautiful?Upon arrival at our destination, Hönow, we decided that it must be the twin suburb of Hyvinkää.  We spotted a shopping mall and went for a look, stopping for a döner kebab along the way (with me opting for a 2 DEM bürek instead -- yum yum, just as greasy as the ones in Slovenia!).  The shopkeeper was much amused by the appearance of a bunch of weird techno freaks and our pathetic attempts at communication in German.  There was a sign on the wall advertising the local Paradise Disco and a row of slot machines in the back.  Such a sense of dejà vu suburbanality!

Eek, makeup!Jalmari (not me!) displaying his inimitable sense of styleAnother night, another party.  I topped off my nuclear-ectoplasm hair by getting a cyberpunky silver manicure, which matched my sunglasses and complemented the light-brown-toned khaki outfit.  The discussion about where to go was so long and heated that it was past midnight before we got going.  My original plan was to go take a peek at a hardcore party and continue on to the night's main event at Ostgut, where both Richie "Plastikman" Hawtin and Luke Slater were spinning, but sicne public transport stops around 1 on Sundays I opted to go straight to Ostgut.  Along the way we met a fellow entropist, who told us that Hawtin had cancelled, but at that time there was little option but to slog on.  Tero joined me, but Jalmari & friends balked at the 20 DEM entrance fee and headed for the HC party on foot.

Flourescent flyerIn the end I did not regret my decision one bit.  Ostgut is a funky labyrinth of a place, which in a former life functioned as some sort of train repair shop: the main hall was set in the, uhh, main hall with the tracks cordoned off, but massive scanners spinning at the other end -- a really funky effect!  There were three rooms playing various intensities of techno house and lots of tiny chillouts, including a wonderful one outside with spotlit trees and tires set as seats in the soft sand, but everybody was gathered in the main room and for a reason: Luke Slater was spinning a 3-hour set!  At first I was a little underwhelmed, as he was making a bit too many purely technical errors for my liking, but (once again) as time passed I realized what an amazingly intense job of deejaying he was doing and, more importantly, how amazing the music was!  Extremely repetitive monotracks mixed with surgical precision, no ecstastic raises, just a steady beat and the DJ tweaking volume/treble/bass for crowd response.  Brilliant!  Most other entropists found it a little too repetitive, but that's their problem.  =P  I danced 'till dawn, said my goodbyes to Arto & Atte (who were leaving directly to Geneva) and set off for the hotel to catch a few Z's.
 



Saatanan saatanan saatana!
-- Kari
Dateline:  Monday 12.7.1999
Location: The autobahn, Berlin-Travemünde

The bus of the Forest People's CongregationIn the morning I packed my stuff, stocked up on food at the nearby Aldi-Markt (the source for 50-pfennig energy drinks and 2-DEM barrels of Frucht Quark) and piled into the bus to start the journey back to Finland.  Not without a detour though: our bus stopped near Westend to add a few pieces of gear to Entropy's inventory, namely two Technics SL-1200MK2 pro turntables and a Numark 2002 mixer.  Near our stop, a little machine was selling plastic aliens for 50p and a mix of gumballs and switchblades for 10 pfennigs apiece.  Some dweeb (who wisely kept his mouth shut) stepped in a pile of poo and spread dog shit all over the bus, releasing earthy aromas as the temperature within started to climb.

And climb it did!  I conquered my favorite place, the guide's seat next to the driver, which quickly turned into a furnace: the bus's air-conditioning was useless in these temperatures and the sunlight was beating straight down through the window.  Midday in Tunisia was nothing compared to this grilling...

Eventually we pulled off the autobahn and started making our way through a string of little villages, purposely detouring around the congested cities of Lübeck and Schwerin.  The tree-lined shady avenues were a welcome relief after the autobahn.  The signposting was a little iffy and once we managed to make a wrong turn, which was fortunately promptly noticed.  So we drove up to a farmhouse's yard and carefully turned the bus around...

<CRUNCH>

"VOI VITTU! VITUN VITUN VITTU!  SAATANAN SAATANAN SAATANA!  PERKELEEN PERKELEEN PERKELE!  I'm sorry.  VITUN VITUN VITTU!  V-I-T-T-U!" cursed our bus driver, his face red and contorted in an apoplectic fit of rage.

In an exemplary example of DDR DesignTM, the stump of a tree had been left in the middle of the driveway, and now the stump made a direct hit on the fiberglass of the bus's left front panel.  Fortunately, the damage was done primarily to our driver's ego, and we could continue our journey.

Trendy or what?Soon we arrived at Travemünde, where our crew boarded the m/s Nils Holgersson after some slooooow passport control done by two bratwurst-eating beer-bellied Günthers mit Moustache.  As on the trip to Berlin (or so I'm told), the ship crew was very cooperative and we were not only allowed to conquer the disco, but hold our after-party on the sundeck as well.  After a filling if otherwise less than extraordinary all-you-can-eat meal at the Pasteria (serves me right for eating pasta after Italy...) and sharing the remains of a semi-imploded bottle of barely drinkable Saint Amour red wine it was time to head for the disco, where some Entropy freaks were already bouncing about, much to the puzzlement of the regulars who sat in a half-circle around the stage and stared.  One of them proved intoxicated enough to not only get up and dance, but encourage his friend to join the act, with less success...

The turntables are mine!  Muahahaha!Getting jiggy wit da Janibombah!Meanwhile, it was time for the trial by wind of Entropy's very own DJ gear, which was busily being set up on the moonlit sun deck.  Much to everyone's amazement it worked!  Just look at the demonic red glow in Überführer Sasu's eyes...  The wind was fierce and cold, so the Unabomber ChicTM style I adopted for the occasion proved to be quite appropriate.  Being tired, I decided to go sleep for a few hours and wake up at 5 AM in time for sunrise...  ha, ha, HA!

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